welding

Mig welding electrode is a semi-automatic to automatic type of welding that is sometimes called gas metal arc welding or GMAW but the name most people understand is Mig welding, short for metal inert gas welding.

Part 1:

Mig welding rod is probably the easiest of all the different welding types; this is mainly because it is a semi-automatic to an automatic process so the welder supports you greatly as you weld. Before you start welding you need to ensure you have the correct equipment to be able to weld, these are a welding gun and wire feed unit, a power supply, shielding gas, welding mask and the correct protective clothing.

Mig welding carries a basic and quite simple technique because the welder does a lot of the work for you, this does not mean that you will be able to weld correctly straight away though. It normally takes a good few days to a week or two before you can gain the correct technique to start Mig welding to a good standard.

When you pick up the welder you will need to hold the welding torch with the welding wire end kept away from the body, then you need to ensure the gas is on to the correct level and the power supply is on.

Part 2:

Now you can start to weld, to do this you need to look at where you are about to weld (for a first timer simply weld onto a flat piece of metal for practice), move the welding torch over the area with the welding wire around quarter to half an inch away from the metal then put your welding mask on to protect you eyes. Once all this is complete press the button of the welding torch and slowly move the torch along the line of where you wish to weld.

The angle of the welding torch is important as it has a big impact on the quality of the weld, for a flat weld it needs to be kept at a ninety degree angle and for a fillet weld keep the torch at a forty five degree angle.

When keeping control of your welding torch try to keep a steady distance between the torch and the metal, altering the distance alters the weld.

Always try to keep a steady, constant speed when welding. If you keep moving faster then slower the weld will change along your weld path.

one:Prepare the metal - the metal should e cleaned, and, if necessary, prep welded (this consists of creating a beveled edge on the sides of the two pieces to be joined; this ensures deep enough penetration of the weld arc to melt both sides).

two:Clamp the two pieces of metal to be welded together.

three:Select the correct amperage and rod for the type of metal being welded.

four:Attach the power source (either AC or DC, depending on the welding electrode type - DC is most commonly used for most electrode types, although some electrode types will work only with DC - and thickness of the base metal - sheet metal works best with DC since it is easier to strike and maintain the arc at low currents -, the distance from the power source to the metal - a long distance will work best with an AC current - , the welding position - DC is best used for overhead and vertical positions - , and if welding in corners, when AC is best used) with a work cable to the base metal, and with a "hot" cable to the electrode. If using a DC power source, determine if you are going to use positive or negative electrode polarity, or straight or reverse polarity; these factors will determine the depth of penetration and rate of burn-off.

five:Select the correct amperage; too much amperage will create a result that is pitted or cratered, or metal that is melted or pulled away; too little amperage will make it hard to strike the arc or maintain the arc.

Determine the position of the rod/angle of travel - for a vertical welding use a push or forehand technique and tilt the top of the rod at a 15 degree angle in the opposite direction of the traveling path; if welding in a flat, overhead, or horizontal position use a pull or drag position, holding the rod in a straight perpendicular position tilted at a 10 to 15 degree angle in the direction of the traveling path.

six:Turn on the machine and prepare to strike the arc - select the point where you wish to begin the weld, and then tap the tip of the welding electrode (which should be held in your dominant hand) against the metal at this point, immediately withdrawing it away about ¼ inch after to avoid having it stick to the metal (if it sticks you may wish to try gripping the clamp on the welding rod and pulling that away). There are a number of methods used to strike the arc, the first being the jab method, where you position the electrode about ½ inch away from the metal, and then jab the metal with a poking motion, immediately withdrawing after. The second method is the scratch or strike method, which is similar to striking a match; the electrode rod is considered to be the match stick and the metal the sandpaper and is used to strike the metal. Pull back slightly when the arc occurs. If you hold the gap between the tip of the electrode and the metal steady a continuous arc should form (the gap is at the correct distance when a sizzling or crackling sound is heard, too far when a popping sound is heard, and too close when there is little or no noise at all).

seven:Once the arc is formed you must immediately feed the electrode into it; begin moving along the path you want to weld, all the while maintaining a consistent speed, staying in line with the path, and keeping a consistent arc (if the electrode sticks, grip the clamp on the rod and pull away; if the arc disappears, stop the process and clean the slag from the metal where you welding).

eight:Create the shape of the bead (the deposit of melted metal that joins the two pieces that you are welding together) by moving the electrode either in a slow, straight line or a zigzag motion; a slower motion will create a deeper weld, while a zigzag motion will create a wider bead, usually more preferred since you can fill more of the weld in a single pass and create a stronger and cleaner weld. Note, however, that this is necessary for thicker steels and metals; thinner metals ¼ inch or thinner usually require a straight line and smaller bead.

nine:Adjust the speed correspondingly to create a wider bead with shallow penetration (slower speeds).

The real trick to welding thin metal is to use a wire feed. Just kidding, this tip is to explain how to do it with a stick welder. A wire feed or tig welder is ideal for sheet metal, but we will assume that you don’t have one. We need to establish what is considered thin metal. There is no absolute “according to Hoyle” answer, but I always considered anything less than 3/16″ to be thin. So from this point on we are talking about less than 3/16″ material.

The first thing to figure out is what kind of welding rod and what size of welding rods to use. If you have nice new 1/8″ material, I would go with 3/32″ 7018 rods. If you have old rusty painted up 14 gauge, I might be inclined to use 1/8″ or 3/32″ 6011 rods. You might ask me, why don’t you just grind the rust off? Well if it’s just surface rust go ahead, but if it’s pitted out you will grind all the material away before you get it clean. Not only that, but if you are just doing a quick repair job on something, just weld it. Chances are, if the material is that bad the weld will far out last the rest of the material anyway. Back to my point, 6011 is the rod I will pick anytime. It allows you to move a lot faster than 7018’s will.

As far as the actual welding goes, I like to use a whipping motion with the welding rod following the same direction as I am welding. Basically just a back and forth motion. The reason for this is to keep from building up too much heat all in one spot. If you were to drag the rod slowly you will have a pretty good chance of burning through. If you are welding vertically, don’t be afraid to run the 6011’s downhill. If the material is really thin, I will use the whipping motion downhill as well. I know it goes against some principles of burying slag but, when the material is thin it really doesn’t matter as much.

Most anything that is made from thin material is over welded. Say for instance you are patching an air compressor tank that has a hole rusted in it. You will weld the patch 100% because it needs to be air tight, not for strength. If you are making a section of air duct, you will weld it solid for air and not for strength, you get the point.

I guess the moral of the story is you can do just about anything with a stick welding electrode in a pinch. It only takes a little bit of practice to make it happen. Just grab a piece of sheet metal to get the heat set correctly and go to town. A good heat setting for 1/8″ 6011 rods on thin material is about 80-90 amps. For 3/32″ 7018’s it’s about the same. Everyone is different but, those settings will get you in the ballpark.

We have to work hard: it is) to uphold and maintain the shot just start tapping firmly rooted in some of the material from the mouth of the metal lift and drag. Because it is based on your check and working conditions,

(i) to give you the exact distance and angle.

2) By this time, the scope of computer machine (must be set to occur at the end of last month) is. Then, the rod can be run without worry beads claims. C) close enough, really get to see a puddle.

3)For a second or two, after you see what that puddle. (Along with the shape you weave side) depending on how much the speed.

4) The sentence: "You see where you please," If this is a thin oval-shaped, thin, and you get to see the hand of oval beads.

5) Use welding rod what you want at least, at a steady pace, is more than a uniform rod of beads so little puddle.

6) What is the U.S. right now, just because it is shorter and the slow pace of more sustainable stability, Do not worry get a sense of providing a rod. If you are too fast (if the pool has been too slow, practical extent, thinning or actually) is.

7) now have a flat surface so little soldering easy. Now other duties, the high dynamic current "arc of a simple lesson" is.

1) Why are you different ways of "Java" the arc itself is necessary to maintain a view to direct molten metal pool stick, "such as pressure or electromotive force voltage (").

2) If the overhead is preheated help and guidance in the direction of welding rods welded to the upper vertical position or your goals, to overcome the puddle, you may cause serious puddle news.

3) Therefore, we need to help you stay in the pool to place a vertical overhead position welding  electrode.

4) The addition, in the horizontal position, and direct stick (arc) is required for the same reason to. It's your right, like the other four) to return to the position of the flat, rather than directly to a single multi-material, the pool does not want to tilt the pole directly, and Java.

If you move more slowly with the pool proposal, Pearl:

* You can start by entering the drainage area of the future, please note that the slag. It is porous, you can weld, you will not find the strength for it.

* how natural sound with a good weld. Some people like bacon. You have to stabilize the crackle It's boiling it, the sound is heard.

* Will show its true shape and transparency near the puddle. We recommend what happened to your body and head mobility. You are, "such as" stick welding practice in any case beautiful drawing.

* feel smooth to the work of.

* diet. Also, if the weld is likely to do is make it worse. As long as you have good penetration and it is strong. You have to be slow to participate in puddles of molten metal on both parts.

* Also, if you need to hesitate to ensure good penetration at the little knitted bead intentionally broad.

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The weld metal has good corrosion resistance and the mechanical character and crack resistance are fine.

The main things that separate the men from the boys or should I say, the actual welders from the rod burners are the enthusiasm to follow procedures for welding stainless steel. Procedures like waiting for the pipe to cool in between passes, maintenance the hot tip of the rod shielded with argon, snipping the tip of the tig welding rod when it gets crapped up, maintaining your tungsten sharp.

One of the main actions is PURGE. Stainless steel completely has to be purged with argon gas in order to prevent sugaring. Sugaring is also called granulation but it is severe oxidation no substance what you call it.

You can’t still get away with tack welding without an argon purge that protect the back side or inside of the pipe. So how do you do it? How do you defend the back side with argon?

Regularly it is done with aluminum duct tape. The ends of a stainless steel pipe are taped shut and the complete inside is purged with argon gas. Yet the opening in the pipe joint itself is taped so that argon can fill the whole pipe and push out any oxygen. The strip is peeled back just enough to obtain a tack once the pipe is purge enough.

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