one:Prepare the metal - the metal should e cleaned, and, if necessary, prep welded (this consists of creating a beveled edge on the sides of the two pieces to be joined; this ensures deep enough penetration of the weld arc to melt both sides).
two:Clamp the two pieces of metal to be welded together.
three:Select the correct amperage and rod for the type of metal being welded.
four:Attach the power source (either AC or DC, depending on the welding electrode type - DC is most commonly used for most electrode types, although some electrode types will work only with DC - and thickness of the base metal - sheet metal works best with DC since it is easier to strike and maintain the arc at low currents -, the distance from the power source to the metal - a long distance will work best with an AC current - , the welding position - DC is best used for overhead and vertical positions - , and if welding in corners, when AC is best used) with a work cable to the base metal, and with a "hot" cable to the electrode. If using a DC power source, determine if you are going to use positive or negative electrode polarity, or straight or reverse polarity; these factors will determine the depth of penetration and rate of burn-off.
five:Select the correct amperage; too much amperage will create a result that is pitted or cratered, or metal that is melted or pulled away; too little amperage will make it hard to strike the arc or maintain the arc.
Determine the position of the rod/angle of travel - for a vertical welding use a push or forehand technique and tilt the top of the rod at a 15 degree angle in the opposite direction of the traveling path; if welding in a flat, overhead, or horizontal position use a pull or drag position, holding the rod in a straight perpendicular position tilted at a 10 to 15 degree angle in the direction of the traveling path.
six:Turn on the machine and prepare to strike the arc - select the point where you wish to begin the weld, and then tap the tip of the welding electrode (which should be held in your dominant hand) against the metal at this point, immediately withdrawing it away about ¼ inch after to avoid having it stick to the metal (if it sticks you may wish to try gripping the clamp on the welding rod and pulling that away). There are a number of methods used to strike the arc, the first being the jab method, where you position the electrode about ½ inch away from the metal, and then jab the metal with a poking motion, immediately withdrawing after. The second method is the scratch or strike method, which is similar to striking a match; the electrode rod is considered to be the match stick and the metal the sandpaper and is used to strike the metal. Pull back slightly when the arc occurs. If you hold the gap between the tip of the electrode and the metal steady a continuous arc should form (the gap is at the correct distance when a sizzling or crackling sound is heard, too far when a popping sound is heard, and too close when there is little or no noise at all).
seven:Once the arc is formed you must immediately feed the electrode into it; begin moving along the path you want to weld, all the while maintaining a consistent speed, staying in line with the path, and keeping a consistent arc (if the electrode sticks, grip the clamp on the rod and pull away; if the arc disappears, stop the process and clean the slag from the metal where you welding).
eight:Create the shape of the bead (the deposit of melted metal that joins the two pieces that you are welding together) by moving the electrode either in a slow, straight line or a zigzag motion; a slower motion will create a deeper weld, while a zigzag motion will create a wider bead, usually more preferred since you can fill more of the weld in a single pass and create a stronger and cleaner weld. Note, however, that this is necessary for thicker steels and metals; thinner metals ¼ inch or thinner usually require a straight line and smaller bead.
nine:Adjust the speed correspondingly to create a wider bead with shallow penetration (slower speeds).
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